Mad about Madagascar: 2-week itinerary and reflections
A magical fortnight on the world’s fourth largest island
(Note — This is my personal experience. Feel free to use my photos, and kindly credit me: Nima Ghadiri/Doctor Yak. Others are available on my instagram)
Madagascar has a phenomenal blend of natural beauty and tradition, yet the country receives only around 300,000 visitors per year. The island nation is not just one of the least visited countries in Africa, but on this entire planet. This is despite the popular eponymous animated film series from Dreamworks, and the unique flora and fauna of the island.
The country is the fourth largest island in the world, spanning around 592,800 square km. Its isolation from mainland Africa, separated by the Mozambique Channel, has played a pivotal role in shaping its distinctiveness and its topography- contrasting lush rainforests, arid plateaus, towering mountains, and pristine coastlines. It is a paradise for biodiversity and nature enthusiasts, and I couldn’t wait to visit.
Charm and Challenges
This enchanting island grapples with pressing troubles: Environmental degradation, including deforestation and habitat loss, threaten the island’s unique biodiversity and the livelihoods of its people. The nation’s political landscape has been marked by instability, with a history of coups and contested elections that have hindered development and foreign investment. In particular, the events of the 2001 Malagasy presidential election appear to have generated turbulence over the subsequent decades.
Madagascar is one of the least developed countries in the world, trapped in a cycle of poverty, leading to issues like malnutrition, inadequate access to healthcare and education, and a lack of basic services in many communities. Infrastructure deficiencies and water scarcity compound the daily hardships faced by the Malagasy people. The average monthly salary is 64 dollars per month, and tragically the exploitation of adults and children remains a huge issue.. It’s hard to travel throughout the country without appreciating the profound difficulties faced by its people.
A Study in Silliness — Me
I was more than a little naïve when arriving in Madagascar, hoping to drive around or tour-hop like I might considering doing in other places. This was ill-judged: There isn’t much infrastructure for tourism, and the safest bet is to have a trip organised through an operator. There are many choices available, and a huge range of prices for one’s budget.
At the last minute I piggy-backed a group tour in the West of Madagascar for the first portion of my trip, joining two friendly colleagues from Germany and Italy, and then travelled alone to a more Eastern base for the second portion (details below). However, any visit has to start with the capital, Antananarivo…
Antananarivo — The Capital
Called “Tana” by locals, this is the vibrant and bustling capital city of Madagascar. Nestled in the heart of the island, it’s a captivating blend of history, culture, and urban life with steep, terraced hillsides are dotted with colourful houses and historical landmarks. These offer panoramic views of the surrounding landscape.
The city is a melting pot of the island’s diverse ethnic groups — the majority of the Malagasy population is of mixed Austronesian and African descent, with ancestors who are believed to have sailed to Madagascar from Southeast Asia, most likely from the islands of modern-day Indonesia and Malaysia, over 2,000 years ago. These early settlers brought with them their languages, cultures, and agricultural practices, which became foundational elements of Malagasy culture. There are a few historical sites, such as the Royal Palace and the Independence Avenue.
Nevertheless I did feel anxiety strolling about — The city’s vibrant culture and resilience are juxtaposed with the stark realities of poverty, inadequate infrastructure, and political instability.
I would recommend being cautious with your mobile phone usage, and also look where you’re walking, with numerous hazards (use your imagination). I was greated by some stunning lightning strikes:
I stayed at a reasonably decent hotel, and there were blackouts every 30 minutes. Probably the two most eventful losses of electricity were in the lift and on the hotel’s treadmill. The latter wasn’t very pleasant but I landed without injury.
Leaving Antananarivo to explore the countrry, there are various options — by far the easiest is flying, however domestic flights were entirely full. The only real option is the Taxi-Brousse mini-bus, an authentic and bumpy experience. The road out of Antananarivo to the West of the country is an interesting one, with some beautiful highland plateaus, villages and crop fields. The ubiquitous Zebu, aka the camel cow or humped cattle is a presence throughout. These versatile animals are used for pretty much everything — agriculture, transport, food, sacrifice….
Days of Pirogue
We travelled towards Miandrivazo — a town and commune situated at the Mahajilo River, greeted by smiling children before hopping onto the iconic Pirogue. These are the traditional dugout canoes of Madagascar, and are an indispensable part of the island’s culture.
These handcrafted wooden vessels have been used for centuries by the Malagasy people for fishing, transportation, and even as a means of connecting isolated communities. They vary in size, from small, nimble boats used for navigating shallow waters to larger, sturdier ones designed for longer voyages. I was on a medium-sized one which was an old faithful at almost give years old. You can relax, and enjoy the ride of course (umbrella was essential with the sun blazing):
Or, just have a go at “piroguing”, better timed during the early morning or evening when the sun isn’t quite searing your skin:
Carved from indigenous hardwoods, these oats play a crucial role in sustaining coastal communities, and are instrumental in the livelihoods of many fishermen who rely on them to traverse the island’s intricate network of rivers and mangroves.
We spent the evenings camping and it was a peaceful experience, gently meandering over three days on the Tsiribihina ariver towards the Mania Estuary which sprouts from the Mozambique channel. This was a fantastic way to see birdlife and also the odd crocodile.
On the way, there were some lovely waterfalls: Nosinapela Waterfall, surrounded by dense forests and teeming with vibrant flora and fauna including some red-fronted brown lemurs.
I also had a refreshing dip myself! It’s a good place to fill up water bottles if you have purifying tablets.
There is a minimal risk of river bandits (although no violence has happened in a while) and possibly even crocodile attack, but thankfully neither featured in our travel. Meeting the riverside communities was a highlight when we stopped for tea, sleep or toilet breaks, in particular the smiling children greeting us at each location.
Towards Bekopapa
Leaving the Pirogue, we travelled towards the municipality of Bekopapa, discovering some fascinating and ingenious method of transporting cars along rivers and estuaries. Often, these ferries are cobbled together using repurposed materials, showcasing the remarkable adaptability and problem-solving skills of the locals. A rope-based car ferry provided quite a spectacle too:
We also too the opportunity to upgrade to the double Pirogue for a somewhat more luxurious bird-watching and caving experience:
Tsingy
From here it was a short trip to Tsingy de Bemaraha, the first-designated UNESCO World Heritage site in Madagascar (1990). This otherworldly landscape is composed of towering limestone pinnacles that appear to defy gravity. Its name, “Tsingy,” is derived from the local Malagasy term for “walking on tiptoes,” and walking on this jagged terrain feels just as challenging. Now, I hadn’t actually researched what I would be doing — and the climb was rather nerve-wracking for the scared of heights (like me), but I definitely appreciated the stunning view at the top.
The Tsingy is a testament to the incredible forces of erosion that have shaped this geological wonder over millions of years. It remains a sacred location, home of the country’s first human settlements around three millenia ago, 3000 years ago. It is also a sanctuary for several lemur species.
As we completed the four-hour Tsingy hike, it started to rain, which made for some challenging driving through the muddy terrain. In this region, it is essential not only to have a 4x4 vehicle but an experienced driver with you. Vehicles are all part of a convoy where the expectation is to help someone out if you get stuck, with an orderly system in which everyone seemed to know their role.
Kirindy Forest
Closeby is Kirindy Forest, aka “Kingdom of the Forest”, which is uniquely placed within the country’s arid region, in contrast to the lush rainforests found in other parts of Madagascar (especially the East). It has spiny, deciduous trees and an arid landscape are home to a remarkable array of species, including several lemur species and the elusive fossa. Unfortunately, I didn’t spot the latter, a top predator…. However we did get to spot quite a few nocturnal species of lemur:
In the day time, we witnessed the lemur’s acrobatic feats, and explored the enchanting, unique flora and fauna that have adapted to the challenging conditions of this captivating forest.
The main species we saw were the red-fronted brown lemurthis was the first of my close encounters of the Lemuroidea kind, as I was able to get close to these playful creatures, and subsequently offered some water out of a snail shell.
We also saw the stunning and playful Sifaka species — here the white-coloured variant jumping in slow motion:
Madagascar is home to 14 genera and over 110 different species of lemurs. They’ve evolved over millions of years to fill various ecological niches, from the small mouse lemurs to the large, charismatic indri indri.
Baobabs
These colossal trees symbolise the island of Madagascar. Scientifically known as Adansonia grandidieri, they stand as sentinels of time, with some believed to be over a thousand years old.
They are characterized by their massive, barrel-like trunks and spindly branches that resemble gnarled roots, earning them the nickname “upside-down trees.”
They serve as more than just a striking landscape; they play a vital role in the local culture and ecosystem and are revered by the Malagasy people. Many legends and myths surround them.
Baobabs are facing threats from climate change, with some older trees dying unexpectedly. Many areas have designated baobabs as protected sites, recognizing their ecological, cultural, and historical significance and aiming to conserve these iconic trees for future generations.
Morondava and Betania
This is a charming coastal town which has a relaxed, laid-back atmosphere and a very different atmosphere to the capital. The seafood here was absolutely outstanding.
Morondava is the capital of one of the greatest ethnic groups of Madagascar: The Sakalava of Menabe — now 6% of the population. The city has royal tombs which are decorated with frescos and funerary sculptures.
We travelled to a fishing village called Betania, effectively an island south of Morondava with a population of around 2400 Vezo fishermen and their families. The trip to the island involved a different type of canoe with some wing-like appendages.
The coastal fishing community was tremendously busy,but seemed happy and was busy engaging in tasks including getting the fish sorted and counted, ship-building.
There was also an impromptu dance class and I was itching to get stuck in!
We also played some beach Bola football using the classic make-shift balls that are found in Africa and Asia, although I won’t share a video of the only trick I could pull off (a rather stunted back-heel). A return to Morandava culminated the last day on the Western part of Madagascar, before a long 17-hour Taxi-Brousse back to the capital
Travelling Eastwards — Andasibe Mantadia
Leaving the arid Western part of Madagascar to the capital, and then travelling to the East — is a study of contrasts. The landscape gradually fills up with lush rice paddies.
I had to make a choice for the last four days of my trip, and decided to go to Andasibe, the complex of national parks and reserve which is home of the Indri Indri lemur. My second choice was visiting the large Ranomafana primary forest of Madagascar.
Andasibe is a verdant haven and protected area which actually comprises of a number of different reserves and national parks within the Andasibe-Mantadia reserve complex, and I visited four of them.
The first was the V.O.I.M.M.A. Community Reserve, run by locals, where I arrived just in time for a night walk. This is always the best time to spot chameleons and of course the only time to see the nocturnal lemurs.
The next day, I went to the main national park within the Analamazaotra reserve, and spotted (and heard) the magnificent Indri Indri for the first time.
There were also families of orange sifaka, sharing a patch with their larger and louder siblings. This young orange sifaka was very playful indeed:
I had a somewhat unique experience here, an orange sifaka approached me and held their hand out, which I reciprocated. He gave me a little sniff — I’m not sure if I look or smell like a lemur, or a combination of both. Either way, it was a surreal experience and the local guides in Andasibe said they hadn’t seen this before “You should consider yourself very lucky to be blessed by the orange sifaka”.
The park is also flanked by an area for orchids, previously maintained by the local community, but following the pandemic this has been reclaimed by the wilderness.
The next day, I went to Vakona Reserve, 30 minutes to the north of Andasibe village. This seemed to be more full of tourists and although an easier way to see lemurs, there was something missing of the magic of the national parks. However, it is probably the best way of seeing the shy and cute bamboo lemur.
The reserve also contains a good number of crocodiles. . The island is home to two crocodile species: the Nile crocodile and the slender-snouted crocodile. The Nile crocodile, known for its size and powerful jaws, is found in various freshwater habitats, including rivers and lakes across Madagascar. The smaller and more elusive slender-snouted crocodile, on the other hand, inhabits remote wetlands and estuaries, making it a rarer sight.
The next day I went to Mitsinjo, opposite Analamazaotra and possibly the best way of seeing Indri Indri. I preferred the hike in this forest to the main national park. As well as lemurs, this region is fantastic for spotting chameleons. Madagascar has 150 species, more than half of the chameleon species on the planet!
My favourite is the Parson’s chameleon: native to Madagascar and renowned for its impressive size and striking appearance, this chameleon is one of the largest species in the world, with individuals often exceeding 60cm. I loved it’s intelligent -looking and very mobile yellow eyes.
The Indri Indri Lemur
The Indri Indri lemur, often referred to as the “babakoto” in Madagascar, is the largest species — it is known for its distinctive appearance and haunting calls. This large, arboreal lemur boasts striking black and white fur, with a round face and expressive, golden eyes. What truly sets the Indri apart is its eerie and melodic songs that echo through the rainforests of eastern Madagascar for almost 5km.
These calls serve both as a form of communication between family groups and as territorial signals. They often sang in unison. The Indri’s diet primarily consists of leaves, fruit, and flowers, and it is known for its methodical and deliberate movement through the trees.
The Indri Indri isn’t just remarkable and charismatic, it unknowingly serves as a symbol of the conservation challenges and responsibilities that come with preserving Madagascar’s exceptional biodiversity. With its dwindling population, conservation efforts are crucial to preserve this unique species and its irreplaceable role in the fragile ecosystems of Madagascar. This is also an entirely monogamous species, other lemurs tend to play the field a little.
I was fortunate enough to serve some leaves for one of these, and do hope he appreciated an efficient Nima-to-Lemur food delivery experience:
These are big creatures, and it is necessary to be aware of what is above you when wandering through their territory, lest one is greeted by a shower of urine or droppings:
There’s also a team here recording for a wildlife series which airs in 2025 on Disney Plus. They were exhausted from trying to chase a good shot.
Initially, the Indri Indri weren’t playing ball, but then they decided to go right into a well-lit spot and help this trio out.
Flora, Fauna, Food
Protecting the unique flora and fauna of Madagascar is a matter of global significance. The island’s remarkable biodiversity, found nowhere else on Earth, is increasingly threatened by deforestation, habitat loss, and the pressures of a growing population.
Conservation efforts in Madagascar are critical to preserving this biological treasure trove, which includes lemurs, chameleons, and countless rare plant species. Organizations, both local and international, are working tirelessly to establish protected areas, promote sustainable land use, and engage local communities in initiatives.
These efforts are not only aimed at safeguarding Madagascar’s natural heritage but also at providing a sustainable future for the Malagasy people who depend on the island’s ecosystems for their well-being.
As awareness grows, the world is rallying to protect Madagascar’s incredible biodiversity, recognizing that the island’s flora and fauna are a global treasure that must be conserved for generations to come. I hope this little travel diary helps in any small way.
The country’s resources haven’t gone unnoticed. Chinese investment in Madagascar’s fishing industry has seen a significant surge in recent years, with Chinese companies engaged in various fishing-related ventures. While these investments offer the promise of economic growth and job opportunities for Madagascar, they also raise concerns about sustainability and environmental protection. The expansion of fishing operations isn’t exceedingly well-regulated…
Food: Seafood holds a special place in the culinary and cultural landscape of Madagascar, and I’d be lying if I said I didn’t engage wholeheartedly with this. With its vast coastline and abundant marine resources, the island nation boasts a rich and diverse array of seafood options. Travellers from the far east visit for the fresh catches including fish, shrimp, crab, and octopus, often prepared with a delightful blend of traditional Malagasy flavors and spices.
The fruits in the country were all very tasty, especially the mango and papaya. Of course Madagascan vanilla is famous around the world, and the chocolate isn’t so bad either.
Other general guidance
- Take Malaria prophylaxis if travelling into an endemic area, particularly during or following the rainy season. Bring bug spray.
- Drink bottled water or bring water purifying capsules.
- Don’t carry too much cash at any one point.
- Keep some euros for tips as well as the local currency (Ariary)
- Don’t flash your phone in the capital or the big cities
- I purchased a travel esim card before arriving (Orange Travel) but you can get sim cards at the airport. Orange appeared to be faster, but Telma had the best coverage in the rural west communities.
